Issue 241 End of February 2019, The Wine Advocate | 28th Feb 2019 |
The 2018 Albariño from a year that was wet until July, followed by a warm and dry summer that balanced the year, when they started harvesting on the 20th of September, more or less normal dates. The wine feels fresher and cooler than the 2017, like an upgraded version of the 2016, with more body and structure but keeping very good acidity. This was kept with the lees for two months. It feels young and tender, a little reductive right now, so it might need to be decanted if consumed early. It should come into a subtler profile with a little more time in bottle. I've always said that good Albariño is better in its second, third or fourth year in bottle, and this is no exception. While I like the clout of the 2017, I admire the subtleness and freshness of this 2018.